Cook's Tour in Taipei

For today's traveling gourmet intent on sampling all Chinese cuisines, the handiest place left outside of Hong Kong is Taipei. The myriad streets and back alleys of the booming capital of the Republic of China on Taiwan (Formosa) contain migrant restaurants by the dozen, brought there with the exodus from Communist rule in 1949. Though the winds of change are blowing. You'll find Cantonese and Mandarin dishes side by side on the same menu; many of the ex-mainlanders cling doggedly to their

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